Kayaking With Tracy
Sometimes New Zealand makes it easy for a man to be a dad. For Ivan Roberts it just took the beauty of Northland and a couple of kayaks.
Launching the two kayaks we started to paddle up the inlet. It was so peaceful with just my little girl and I. Tracy was in her favorite two-tone greenish blue kayak and I was paddling the red beauty. We enjoyed the glory of the mangroves and tree-lined banks as the exquisite Shag or two kept a watchful eye on us.
A few ducks and gulls looked on as we slowly paddled the calm waters together. It was great, just Tracy and I alone on the expanse of slow moving tranquil water. The day was warm and the air fresh as the soft splash of our paddles broke through the waters surface.
It was late Friday morning and after a couple of flights, one to Auckland where we were held up for an hour, then one up to Kerikeri, Tracy and I were finally here away from the bustling life of the towns. We had planned this trip some months ago as it was my Tracy’s ninth birthday and she loved to travel to these parts of the island. Here we both were, enjoying our time together on the blue waters that we had talked about for so long.
We had just flown the length of the North Island high above a woolly blanket of cloud at about two thousand meters the whole way. Only the peaks of the highest mountains Egmont, Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe were able to make their presence known as they pierced through the clouds to the blue skies above.
I could see how legend has it that a thousand years ago Kupe, the famous Polynesian Navigator, had come to name our beautiful country Aotearoa, (land of the long white cloud). Such an apt name as the long low clouds masking the mountain-tops was probably commanded his attention when he arrived.
Now the cloud was breaking and the sun warmed our backs as the water lapped against out kayaks. It was so serene paddling beside my Tracy. She looked so small in her large sea kayak. Being small though did not stop her short body and arms from handling the large paddle with some skill.
In fact, she maneuvered the vessel rather well for her size. We loved our time together but before too long she wanted to head back to the mainland as she was getting a little tired. We returned to the little wharf and carried the kayaks back up to the house were we chatted and decided what we would do next.
With food on our minds I thought I might be able to talk Tracy into walking into Kerikeri to McDonalds. This she was keen to do until she realised it was a good half hours walk, so she said a sandwich would do instead as she was so tired. Finding there was no bread Tracy soon spotted the two minute noodles in the pantry and quickly set about organizing me to help her get them cooking.
Lunch was over and after a bit of a rest Tracy and I took a walk down to the famous Stone Store, an early Stone building and the oldest in the country. We did not make it all the way but we did find instead “The Parrot Place”. This is a private set-up and had only been opened to the public just a few months ago.
We both enjoyed the vast collection of birds from South American Macaws, a huge noisy colorful bird, to a variety of Australian and New Zealand favorites. Tracy loved this place and enjoyed searching for the hidden statues and birds in order to claim her balloon prize.
We headed for ‘home’, the place of my brother Joe and his daughter Christa, and both fell asleep accompanied by the sun warming us with her fingers through the lounge window.
This was good for my old back I thought to myself, sleeping on the hard floor. We woke up as Christa walked in. She was just home from school and gave us a big hug; it was nice to see her. Brother Billy soon followed and also greeted us warmly.
An hour or so later Joe arrived home and we soon had the barbeque fired up and ready to go. The new four-burner barbeque was obviously Joe’s pride and joy. A good steak, a beer and good company, not much else needed to satisfy any appetite. We talked and played before an early night for all.
I woke in the early hours and enjoyed my vista down to the waters edge framed by the large lounge window. I then fell back to sleep and awoke again about eight o’clock, quite a sleep in for me. Breakfast of Barbie bacon, eggs and tomatoes was soon consumed then we were off to Joe’s work to look around the new prison site.
The grounds comprised a re-directed stream, a lake complete with ducks, and an expanse of green lush lawn for recreation where these people can reflect and ponder over their sins
But we soon found ourselves on the way to Kaikoke, a small town nearby where Christa got my Tracy a birthday present. Once Christa had her shopping under control, we all headed for home. We were not home long before Joe and I raced down to the water with our kayaks for a good paddle. We left Tracy to play with Christa and Billy as we couldn’t convince then to come.
Down the inlet we headed with the warm sun on our backs. The beauty all around us was amazing. Large houses were poised on every vantage point between the trees and vegetation enjoying the lovely vistas. Down past “Taranaki Island”, an Island Tracy, Wendy, Sam Potter and I stopped and climbed on our last visit. I felt like I had been Captain Cook on his arrival 225 years ago as he had climbed a deserted island to take him his wonderful discovery.
On toward the open ocean Joe and I paddled, riding the small swells from time to time to rest our arms. We decided to head for “Crooked Hat Island”, which was a long way in the distance, and across its reef around to the far side and then across to the other side of the inlet and back home along its rock and cave lined shores. Joe and I had planned to return by four o’clock as we had people coming around for a barbeque.
It was a great invigorating paddle and I loved it all, Joe alongside not saying much as we both just soaked in the surrounding beauty. The water was so clear out in the ocean proper and we could easily view of all the islands and shoreline alive with bird life and people.
The paddle was so relaxing, from the rocky shore line to the sand beaches and across to the tree lined banks with the many large houses looking down on us. We laughed aloud as we maneuvered our kayaks across to the island reefs riding the wakes made by the passing speedboats. We arrived home a little over three hours later.
Christa and Tracy had prepared a nice salad accompanied by a variety of kebabs. Our visitors soon arrived with a few beers and more good food to share. I felt great after my huge paddle. I found muscles I didn’t know I had and decided I needed more time in the kayak before I ever attempted anything grand.
I felt fine though and really enjoyed the afternoon. It is such a beautiful place and to be out on the water with one’s thoughts was just magic. The guests soon left after an interesting and fun evening and it was a reasonably early night for all. I organised my fold down couch next to the window so I could awaken to the lovely sight of the Inlet and the trees that bordered it.
I woke as per normal bright and early and rose with the desire to get out on the water on this lovely early morning. As the kayaks were left down at the waters edge it was no effort. I soon donned my togs and a dirty T-Shirt, I grabbed my life jacket and paddle and headed for the inlet. I shoved off from the little wharf and onto the calm peaceful water.
The only sounds to accompany me on this early Sunday morning were the birds singing and their splashing as they pierced the waters with their beaks looking for food. I paddled up the inlet toward the Stone Store, a good half hours paddle away. This is the oldest European building still standing in the country and was built in 1832.
I sneaked up on the occasional shag as I went. I admired all the flash launches and yachts as I passed them. What a lovely quiet time with just myself and my many thoughts. Soon though, my tummy told me it was time to head home. I arrived back an hour later and I expected everyone to be up as it was seven o’clock. This was not to be so on with the jug and time for a cupper. The others soon wandered out with Joe not believing that I had already been for a long paddle.
After a good breakfast, cooked on the new barbeque, we were off to one of Joe’s work mates to pick oranges, as he had a small orchard on his land. These oranges were growing like mad and were beautiful to see and taste.
The orchard must have had about one hundred odd trees full of fruit. The fruit was going to waste so we got a few buckets full and were off on our way to Paihia to have a look around.
Paihia is a wonderfully beautiful spot where, from the beach, you can look right out to Cape Brent and the hole in the rock that guards the entrance to this amazing huge bay with its islands and inlets. Russell lay just across the water a short thirty-minute ferry ride away.
Here was the first Capital of New Zealand. It was once also an old port of call and provided recreation for the Whalers of the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries. Charles Darwin, the noted naturalist, once described Russell as “The hell hole of the Pacific” because of the lawless drunken behavior of the sailors that frequented it. This now quaint town was one of the first in this young country of ours.
Many early mission stations were set up all around this area, with many early pioneering stories of hardship still told to this day.
Much to the disgust of the girls, we decided to go for a walk along a lovely track that followed the Waitangi River. We left from near the famous Treaty House, where the treaty between Maori and Europeans was signed for joint ownership of our land. We walked alongside the slow moving tidal river dotted with Mangroves and an abundance of bird life.
The girls were not so impressed and Christa, who wanted to go shopping for bikinis, had quickly turned Tracy against the idea of walking. Not that she needed much encouragement. Eventually, a deal was struck. We would only walk to the first boardwalk about thirty minutes away. We arrived back at the car an hour later after a lovely relaxing walk and then we were off to Joe’s friend’s home for a much needed cupper.
What an amazing view it was from this chaps front window. Across the road and then out to the entrance to the Bay of Islands, with the rolling lush green hills, deep blue bays and small scattered islands in the foreground.
Back in Kerikeri we dropped the kids at the “Parrot Place”, as Tracy wanted to show the kids her newly found treasure, the wild bird-life. Joe and I headed for “Edmonds Ruins”, a place neither of us had been. This turned out to be an early settler’s stone house of John Edmonds and his family that he built in 1834 when he moved out to New Zealand to work the missionary society.
It was a good twenty-minute drive from Kerikeri down the inlet and then toward the vast ocean. We couldn’t understand why a person would build his house inland when a few hundred meters away was the waters edge, and truly, one of the best vistas in the country. We took a good look around marveling at the splendor that surrounded us.
Once home, the trusty new barbeque was fired up and we soon got to enjoy a light dinner of salad, sausages and some left over chops. Back down to the water we headed after dinner, laughing loudly as we embarked on a lovely evening paddle. Joe, Christa and I paddled up to the Stone Store and then dilly-dallied back exploring the banks of the inlet along the way.
On our return we left one kayak at the waters edge for Tracy and me in the morning. We washed the others and put them away. Then we sat and chatted for what was left of a very pleasant evening.
Today is Tracy’s birthday and I got an unusual premature morning visit as my darling slipped into bed with me on my couch. She was nine today and being a school day, Joe and the kids were up shortly afterwards. We had a nice early morning and Tracy got a few presents before Joe was off to work and Billy and Christa were off to school.
Tracy and I headed down to the water for one last paddle as we were going home at 9.30am. Joe was coming back home to pick us up and drop us at the airport.
We launched the kayak and Tracy got in and I squeezed in behind her, a tight fit but nice to be out having fun with my beautiful daughter. It was a wonderful morning, light cloud cover but warm. We pushed off and paddled down the inlet watching the few birds that were around going about their business.
It was so calm, so quiet, and so relaxing as we chatted, paddled and looked around. The water was like a pond. The tide was almost out and the mud flats, where the birds sought their food, were exposed and steaming from the warmth of the morning sun.
We turned up another little side inlet and gazed in awe at the bird-life that inhabited this bush-lined stretch of water. A few nice boats were moored up and a few big houses stood high above us.
Eventually we turned back and headed for home. We had to clean the kayak, put it away, pack and be ready at half past nine. The cloud had started to burn off a bit and I was pleased, as I wanted to soak in the vista from here to Auckland. It is said to be lovely and we missed it on the way up.
Joe soon arrived and it was off to the airport with our bags bulging with the oranges we had picked. Lovely, sweet oranges for those left at home. A strong handshake that clearly conveyed my thanks was exchanged with Joe, and with a sad good bye and a big hug from Tracy Joe left us.
We checked our bags in and went outside to watch our little twenty-seat plane land. On we got and took our seats, Tracy was so excited she was shaking and her little hand rested in mine as we raced down the runway and up into the air. We were able to see some of the vast ocean out of both sides of the plane and the many coves and inlets from our side of the plane.
Touching down in Auckland some thirty-five minutes later we moved quickly to the other end of the terminal as it was almost time to board our flight to Wellington.
We finally came to the bottom of the North Island and flew effortlessly toward the Cook Strait. We were landing from the south so we had to do a big U turn; the Captain pointed out that above the cloud far to the south was Mt Cook and the Southern Alps. This was amazing. I was impressed with this stunning sight. The snow capped Cook and Tasman pierced the heavens like two giants it the distance.
It was amazing how far we could see from up here. Towering above the rest of the Alps, most of which were below the cloud cover, nestled these two majestic wonders. I have never seen this vista from this height before and was captured by it as I pressed my face to the little plane window.
Then we turned and descended toward the runway, landing and taxiing to the terminal. Collecting our bags Tracy and I headed outside and waited for Mum who soon arrived with a warm welcome home.
“Happy birthday Tracy”, was Mums chorus, and we headed for our favorite lunch bar for a nice late birthday lunch. This finished a truly wonderful relaxing weekend in our wonderful Aotearoa with my Tracy.
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